Discover the story behind Lehua, a vibrant restaurant in Hilo, Hawaii, where traditional Hawaiian ingredients meet modern culinary techniques. This unique spot is not just any restaurant—it’s deeply rooted in family heritage, sustainability, and a passion for creating nostalgic Hawaiian food with a contemporary twist. From raising some of the finest Berkshire pigs on their own farm to crafting dishes that celebrate the island’s natural bounty, Lehua offers an authentic taste of Hawaii’s culinary soul.
From Farm to Table: Raising the Finest Pork on the Big Island
Lehua’s story begins on the family farm, nestled right in the heart of the Big Island. Chef Keanu Reggador and his team raise Berkshire pigs, known for their rich red meat and superior fat content. These pigs are lovingly cared for using rotational grazing methods, ensuring sustainability and respect for the land.
“We raise the finest pork in the world on our own family farm, trying to be sustainable as possible, and we hold those things very sacred,” Chef Keanu shares. This commitment to quality and sustainability reflects in every dish served at Lehua.
The choice of Berkshire pigs wasn’t accidental. Chef Keanu describes them as “the Arnold Schwarzenegger’s of pigs,” prized for their marbling and flavor. Unlike typical supermarket pork, which tends to be pale and lean, their pork is a vibrant red with excellent fat content, thanks to careful feeding practices including macadamia nuts.
Mastering the Art of Butchery Hawaiian Style
Butchering at Lehua is a precise craft passed down and perfected over time. The team cuts pork following Hawaiian tradition, focusing on ribs around the fifth and sixth vertebrae to highlight prized cuts like the kaupah, known locally as the “money muscle” for its intramuscular fat and flavor.
Owen, a skilled butcher who grew up hunting and diving, brings a survivalist precision to the process, ensuring nothing goes to waste. This respect for the whole animal is a cornerstone of Lehua’s philosophy.
Crafting Daily Specials with Fresh Island Ingredients
Lehua’s menu is ever-changing, reflecting the freshest local catch and farm produce. The pork loin special, for instance, is brined for seven days, cooked sous vide at 143.5°F for four to five hours, then seared to perfection. It’s served with simple yet flavorful sides like carrot ginger butter, broccolini, twice-fried Okinawan purple potatoes, and a local chimichurri made with garden herbs.
“Try and let the pork sing for itself,” Chef Keanu says, emphasizing simplicity and respect for the ingredient’s natural flavors.
The brine itself is a carefully balanced blend of salt, brown sugar, sodium nitrate, bay leaf, garlic, peppercorns, mustard seed, and coriander seed. Different cuts like hams and bacon are brined for varying durations to develop their unique flavors and textures before making their way to the smoker.
Smoking with Care and Consistency
Lehua uses an electric pellet smoker to gently infuse their pork with smoky notes. Larger cuts like hams are placed higher where it’s hotter, while thinner pieces like bacon are arranged to ensure even cooking. The team monitors the temperature closely to maintain consistency—a nod to their dedication to quality.
Fresh Fish and Island Produce: The Heart of Hawaiian Cuisine
Lehua’s commitment to local sourcing extends beyond pork. Their fish, caught fresh from the waters around Hilo, is cleaned and prepared daily. Chef Keanu prefers to keep fish dishes simple to honor the natural flavors, often serving them whole, fried or steamed, with a light sprinkle of chili pepper salt.
The fish they serve—ono (wahoo) and ahi (tuna)—are caught sustainably and never flown in, ensuring freshness and supporting local fishermen. “People come to Hawaii to taste the fish of Hawaii,” Chef Keanu explains.
To complement the fish, they serve vibrant sides like watercress salad, fried kalo, tomatoes, onions, and rice, creating a colorful and balanced plate that showcases the island’s flavors.
Engaging the Community and Future Generations
Lehua also embraces education and sustainability by involving local kids in agriculture and fishing knowledge. Teaching them about ocean currents, weather patterns, and sustainable fishing practices ensures that Hawaiian culinary traditions and natural resources will thrive for years to come.
Preparing for Service: Teamwork and Attention to Detail
As the afternoon progresses, the kitchen buzzes with activity. The team preps sauces, vegetables, and special dishes like black garlic—fermented for 16 days in a rice cooker to develop its deep umami flavor. Chef Keanu also oversees the final plating and presentation, stepping in wherever needed, from line cooking to expo duties.
Service preparation includes reviewing the day’s specials, available ingredients, and coordinating with the front of house to ensure guests receive perfectly paired dishes. Despite the hustle, the kitchen’s focus remains on delivering authentic, flavorful Hawaiian food with heart.
A Taste of Hawaii Through Thoughtful Cooking
Lehua is more than a restaurant—it’s a celebration of Hawaiian culture, sustainability, and heritage. By blending traditional ingredients with modern techniques, Chef Keanu and his team invite diners to experience the island’s rich culinary story one delicious bite at a time.
For those passionate about cooking, recipes, and the spirit of Bon Appétit, Lehua offers an inspiring example of how food can connect us to place, history, and community.
This article was created from the video This Hawaiian Restaurant Produces Some of the World’s Best Pork | On The Line | Bon Appétit with the help of AI.
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