If you’ve ever been curious about what goes into making the iconic Hawaiian staple, Spam, or how a butcher shop can truly celebrate local meats, this story from Honolulu’s The Local General Store is a must-read. This unique butcher shop, the first of its kind on Oahu, is dedicated to sourcing exclusively local meats and making them accessible to the community. From whole animal butchery to crafting beloved comfort foods like Spam and scrapple, their approach is rooted in sustainability, tradition, and a deep respect for local farmers.
Bringing Local Meats to the Heart of Oahu
The Local General Store stands out as a pioneer in Hawaii’s burgeoning local food movement. While the demand for local produce and proteins has grown over the past 10 to 15 years, access to local meats remained limited—until now. Co-owner and head butcher Jason Chow and his wife Parley, who runs the bakery side, created this shop with one goal: to make local proteins accessible for local people.
Jason explains, “We have homes for every single cut, every single piece of that animal.” This means nothing goes to waste. Cuts that don’t make it into the display case are transformed into deli meats, pates, and other comfort foods that resonate with the Hawaiian palate.
Making Spam the Local Way: A Labor of Love
Spam is more than just a canned meat in Hawaii—it’s a cultural icon. Introduced by the US military, Spam, Vienna sausage, and corned beef have become staples across Polynesia, but The Local General Store puts a fresh, local spin on it. Their Spam is made from finely ground pork trim and homemade ham, with less sodium and fewer preservatives than commercial versions.
The process is meticulous. Jason describes their “progressive grind,” where the pork is ground multiple times through different sizes of dies to achieve the perfect texture. During grinding, ice is added to keep the meat cool despite the heat generated by the grinder’s torque. This helps maintain quality and safety.
Spices like salt, white pepper, paprika, and sugar are mixed in, along with potato starch to absorb moisture and give the Spam its signature “bouncy snappiness.” The key to a great Spam texture is emulsification—the breaking down of proteins that bind fat and meat together to create a juicy, cohesive product.
“We do add nitrates here to keep that pink color. Nitrates bind to hemoglobin before oxygen does, so the meat stays red and doesn’t turn gray.”
After mixing, the Spam is packed into molds with care to eliminate air bubbles, following traditional French pâté techniques. It’s then refrigerated before baking to perfection.
Scrapple: A Classic Reimagined with Hawaiian Ingredients
Another value-added item they craft is scrapple, a dish originally invented by Dutch settlers in Pennsylvania to utilize the entire animal. The Local General Store’s version uses pork heads, ears, shanks, and trotters, which provide collagen and gelatin to help the scrapple set.
The pork head meat is slowly cooked for hours until it falls off the bone. It’s then mixed with cornmeal and local ulu (breadfruit) flour, which adds nuttiness and acts as a natural binder. Bay leaves and salt balance the flavors, cutting through the pork’s gaminess. The mixture is poured into terrine molds and chilled overnight, ready to be sliced and enjoyed.
Whole Animal Butchery: Sustainability Meets Craftsmanship
At the core of The Local General Store’s philosophy is whole animal butchery. This means buying the entire animal from local farmers and using every part responsibly. Jason highlights the importance of this approach for true sustainability and supporting farmers.
The shop receives large deliveries of local beef, pork, and chicken, including parts often overlooked, like chicken heads and feet, which are used for stocks. Custom walk-in coolers and display cases showcase primal cuts and value-added products.
Jason and his team meticulously break down each carcass, turning rib eyes, short ribs, chuck roasts, and pork legs into fresh cuts and specialty items like their house-made Char Siu. The pork leg, for example, is trimmed and seasoned with a marinade of fermented red bean paste, ginger, garlic, shoyu, and brown sugar before being roasted and incorporated into croissants by the bakery team.
Daily Rituals and Customer Care
The day starts early at 5:30 AM with preparations before the shop opens. Salt is used on butcher tables overnight to absorb moisture and prevent cracks, ensuring a clean and safe workspace. Labeling and display setup are done with care, using pink butcher paper between cuts to prevent oxidation and keep meats fresh and appealing.
Once open, the team focuses on customer service—cutting custom orders, wrapping products to specification, and keeping the display case well stocked. Jason shares the excitement and slight anxiety of receiving large weekly meat deliveries, knowing it’s all part of the commitment to quality and community.
Celebrating Local Flavors with Every Cut
The Local General Store is more than a butcher shop; it’s a celebration of Hawaiian heritage, sustainability, and culinary craftsmanship. By sourcing exclusively local meats and turning every part of the animal into delicious, accessible products, Jason and his team are redefining what it means to enjoy meat in Hawaii.
Whether you’re craving the world’s best Spam, artisanal scrapple, or fresh cuts from trusted local farms, this butcher shop offers a taste of aloha in every bite.
This article was created from the video A Day at the Hawai'i Butcher Shop Making the World’s Best Spam | On The Line | Bon Appétit with the help of AI.
A Day at the Hawai'i Butcher Shop Making the World’s Best Spam | Cooking, Recipes, Bon Appétit. There are any A Day at the Hawai'i Butcher Shop Making the World’s Best Spam | Cooking, Recipes, Bon Appétit in here.
